Shrimp and Tasso Gumbo

Preparation Simmer shrimp shells and water, uncovered, in an 8-quart pot until liquid is reduced to about 12 cups, 15 to 20 minutes, then pour through a sieve set over a large bowl and discard shells. Stir together oil and flour in a 10-inch heavy skillet (preferably cast-iron) with a flat metal or wooden spatula, then cook over moderately low heat (do not use a high-BTU burner), scraping back and forth constantly (not stirring) until roux is the color of milk chocolate, 30 to 45 minutes. (As roux cooks, it may be necessary to lower the heat to prevent scorching.) Add onions, celery, and bell pepper and cook, scraping back and forth occasionally, until onion is softened, about 8 minutes. Scrape roux mixture into cleaned 8-quart pot, then add shrimp stock and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat, then add tasso, salt, and cayenne and simmer, uncovered, 30 minutes. Add okra and simmer until tender, 5 to 8 minutes. Stir in shrimp and simmer until just cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in scallion greens and salt to taste. Cooks' notes:•Andouille or other smoked pork sausage can be substituted for the tasso. Brown the sausage in a heavy skillet over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, then transfer to paper towels to drain. Stir into gumbo with scallions. •Gumbo improves in flavor if made 1 day ahead without okra, shrimp, and scallion greens and cooled completely, uncovered, then chilled, covered. Reheat, then proceed with recipe, adding and cooking okra and shrimp. *Available at cajungrocer.com.

Preparation Simmer shrimp shells and water, uncovered, in an 8-quart pot until liquid is reduced to about 12 cups, 15 to 20 minutes, then pour through a sieve set over a large bowl and discard shells. Stir together oil and flour in a 10-inch heavy skillet (preferably cast-iron) with a flat metal or wooden spatula, then cook over moderately low heat (do not use a high-BTU burner), scraping back and forth constantly (not stirring) until roux is the color of milk chocolate, 30 to 45 minutes. (As roux cooks, it may be necessary to lower the heat to prevent scorching.) Add onions, celery, and bell pepper and cook, scraping back and forth occasionally, until onion is softened, about 8 minutes. Scrape roux mixture into cleaned 8-quart pot, then add shrimp stock and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat, then add tasso, salt, and cayenne and simmer, uncovered, 30 minutes. Add okra and simmer until tender, 5 to 8 minutes. Stir in shrimp and simmer until just cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in scallion greens and salt to taste. Cooks' notes:•Andouille or other smoked pork sausage can be substituted for the tasso. Brown the sausage in a heavy skillet over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, then transfer to paper towels to drain. Stir into gumbo with scallions. •Gumbo improves in flavor if made 1 day ahead without okra, shrimp, and scallion greens and cooled completely, uncovered, then chilled, covered. Reheat, then proceed with recipe, adding and cooking okra and shrimp. *Available at cajungrocer.com.