Clams in a Cataplana Casa Velha

Preparation Scrub the clams well in cool water, pile in a large deep kettle, add the cold water, salt, and the cornmeal, which acts as an irritant that forces the clams to purge themselves of grit. Let the clams stand in the cold water about 1 hour. Meanwhile, prepare the sauce: Stir-fry the onions, garlic, and green peppers in the oil in a large heavy skillet over moderate heat 8 to 10 minutes until limp and golden. Add the bay leaf, tomatoes, and their juice. Break up any large clumps of tomatoes, bring mixture to a simmer, cover, and cook slowly for 30 minutes; add the tomato sauce, prosciutto, smoked ham, and pepperoni, re-cover, and cook 30 minutes longer. Note: You can make the sauce as much as two days ahead of time but do not buy the clams until the day you plan to serve the cataplana. The sauce should be covered and refrigerated until you are ready to proceed. To assemble the cataplana, spoon half the tomato mixture into the bottom of a very large cataplana (it should measure about 15 inches across) or into a large heavy Dutch-oven type of kettle, and bring to a simmer over moderate heat. Adjust the heat so that the mixture barely boils, arrange the clams on top, spoon in the remaining tomato sauce, cover tight, and cook 10 minutes over moderately low heat — no peeking. Open the cataplana or kettle, pour in the wine, scatter the parsley evenly on top, then toss the clams lightly. Re-cover and cook slowly 15 to 20 minutes longer until the clams open — discard any that do not. Carry the cataplana or kettle to the table, open, and ladle into large soup plates. Serve with Pão or other rough country bread. Note: Be sure to put out a large bowl for empty clam shells. Jean Anderson shares her tips with Epicurious:•"Portuguese clams are actually cockles, which are small and sweet, with thin shells that open quickly," says Anderson. "In America, I recommend that cooks use the smallest clams they can find." •In the Algarve region of Portugal, you can follow the sounds of hammering through tiny backstreets to find workmen pounding out copper cataplanas, clamshell-shaped cooking vessels that somewhat resemble double woks. The word cataplana refers to dishes cooked in this vessel (usually steamed or stewed chicken or seafood, sometimes with pork) as well as to the vessel itself. While a cataplana's tight domed lid and thin copper base will transmit heat quickly and allow for fast, hot steaming, any heavy, deep, tight-lidded skillet or Dutch oven will achieve similar results. A cataplana will make for lovely presentation, however, and can be purchased in many upscale cookware shops. •If you live in an area with a Portuguese community, you may be able to find mellow, nutty presunto and subtle, garlicky chouriço, which will give this dish the most authentic flavor. However, Italian prosciutto and Spanish chorizo make fine substitutes. Reprinted with permission from The Food of Portugal, © 1986, by Jean Anderson, HarperCollins Publishing, Inc.

Preparation Scrub the clams well in cool water, pile in a large deep kettle, add the cold water, salt, and the cornmeal, which acts as an irritant that forces the clams to purge themselves of grit. Let the clams stand in the cold water about 1 hour. Meanwhile, prepare the sauce: Stir-fry the onions, garlic, and green peppers in the oil in a large heavy skillet over moderate heat 8 to 10 minutes until limp and golden. Add the bay leaf, tomatoes, and their juice. Break up any large clumps of tomatoes, bring mixture to a simmer, cover, and cook slowly for 30 minutes; add the tomato sauce, prosciutto, smoked ham, and pepperoni, re-cover, and cook 30 minutes longer. Note: You can make the sauce as much as two days ahead of time but do not buy the clams until the day you plan to serve the cataplana. The sauce should be covered and refrigerated until you are ready to proceed. To assemble the cataplana, spoon half the tomato mixture into the bottom of a very large cataplana (it should measure about 15 inches across) or into a large heavy Dutch-oven type of kettle, and bring to a simmer over moderate heat. Adjust the heat so that the mixture barely boils, arrange the clams on top, spoon in the remaining tomato sauce, cover tight, and cook 10 minutes over moderately low heat — no peeking. Open the cataplana or kettle, pour in the wine, scatter the parsley evenly on top, then toss the clams lightly. Re-cover and cook slowly 15 to 20 minutes longer until the clams open — discard any that do not. Carry the cataplana or kettle to the table, open, and ladle into large soup plates. Serve with Pão or other rough country bread. Note: Be sure to put out a large bowl for empty clam shells. Jean Anderson shares her tips with Epicurious:•"Portuguese clams are actually cockles, which are small and sweet, with thin shells that open quickly," says Anderson. "In America, I recommend that cooks use the smallest clams they can find." •In the Algarve region of Portugal, you can follow the sounds of hammering through tiny backstreets to find workmen pounding out copper cataplanas, clamshell-shaped cooking vessels that somewhat resemble double woks. The word cataplana refers to dishes cooked in this vessel (usually steamed or stewed chicken or seafood, sometimes with pork) as well as to the vessel itself. While a cataplana's tight domed lid and thin copper base will transmit heat quickly and allow for fast, hot steaming, any heavy, deep, tight-lidded skillet or Dutch oven will achieve similar results. A cataplana will make for lovely presentation, however, and can be purchased in many upscale cookware shops. •If you live in an area with a Portuguese community, you may be able to find mellow, nutty presunto and subtle, garlicky chouriço, which will give this dish the most authentic flavor. However, Italian prosciutto and Spanish chorizo make fine substitutes. Reprinted with permission from The Food of Portugal, © 1986, by Jean Anderson, HarperCollins Publishing, Inc.