Poached Salmon in Aspic

PreparationPoach salmon: Wash salmon inside and out and sprinkle inside with salt. Unfold 1 piece of cheesecloth on top of the other to make a double layer, then wrap fish snugly in it and tie ends (close to fish) with kitchen string. Place on poacher rack in poacher, then straddle poacher across 2 burners on stovetop. Add 6 quarts cold water (it should cover fish by 1 inch), lemon juice, vegetables, herbs, and peppercorns. Bring to a boil, partially covered, over high heat (this will take about 25 minutes; fish will register 145°F on an instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part of fish). Transfer poacher to a metal rack and cool fish in broth, uncovered, 30 minutes. Then chill fish in poacher (do not pour off broth), uncovered, at least 8 hours. Reduce broth for aspic: Lift fish on poacher rack out of broth and drain well, then transfer from rack to a large shallow baking pan and chill. Pour broth through a sieve into a large bowl. Transfer 8 cups broth to a 4-quart heavy pot, reserving remainder for another use. Add white wine, Madeira, thyme sprig, and salt and boil until reduced to 5 cups, 30 to 40 minutes. Cool 20 minutes. Prepare salmon for glazing: Wash reserved leek leaves and chopped leeks in a bowl of cold water, then lift out and drain well. Cut leaves into decorative strips. Blanch strips in a saucepan of boiling water 1 minute, then transfer to a bowl of ice and cold water. Drain and pat dry. Remove strings from cheesecloth, then open cheesecloth but don't remove it. Remove fatty strip and small bones (they look like a comb) from spine of fish from head to tail. Trim off any fat from edges of belly. Carefully remove bony section under gills, then remove skin and dark flesh from visible side (top) of fish by gently scraping with a small sharp knife. Using the cheesecloth, roll fish over onto platter and remove bony section under gills, then remove skin and dark flesh from other side of fish. Wipe platter clean, then cover fish with dampened paper towels and chill until aspic is ready. Clarify broth (using egg whites and shells) and make aspic: Whisk together reduced broth, chopped leek, carrot, celery, and egg whites and shells in a 4- to 6-quart heavy pot. Bring to a boil, whisking constantly, then reduce heat and cook at a bare simmer, undisturbed, over low heat 30 minutes. Ladle broth through sieve lined with a double thickness of dampened paper towels set over a 1-quart glass measure, then press firmly on solids. Soften gelatin in cold water in a 1-quart saucepan 1 minute. Add 3 cups broth and simmer, stirring, until gelatin is dissolved, about 2 minutes. Glaze salmon with aspic: Ladle 2/3 cup aspic into a metal bowl set in a larger bowl of ice and cold water. Let stand, stirring occasionally, just until aspic is the consistency of raw egg white. Remove bowl from ice water and spoon a thin layer of aspic over fish, then chill fish until aspic is set, about 10 minutes. Arrange leek garnish on fish and glaze fish with more aspic. Chill fish, uncovered, until ready to serve. Pour remaining aspic into a 13- by 9-inch baking dish and chill until firm, about 1 hour. Cut into 1/2-inch cubes, then arrange cubes around salmon. Cooks' notes:Salmon can be poached and chilled in broth up to 2 days. Aspic-glazed salmon keeps, chiiled(uncovered), 1 day. *Fish Poachers available at specialty cookware shops and Zabar's (800) 697-6301 or (212) 496-1234.

PreparationPoach salmon: Wash salmon inside and out and sprinkle inside with salt. Unfold 1 piece of cheesecloth on top of the other to make a double layer, then wrap fish snugly in it and tie ends (close to fish) with kitchen string. Place on poacher rack in poacher, then straddle poacher across 2 burners on stovetop. Add 6 quarts cold water (it should cover fish by 1 inch), lemon juice, vegetables, herbs, and peppercorns. Bring to a boil, partially covered, over high heat (this will take about 25 minutes; fish will register 145°F on an instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part of fish). Transfer poacher to a metal rack and cool fish in broth, uncovered, 30 minutes. Then chill fish in poacher (do not pour off broth), uncovered, at least 8 hours. Reduce broth for aspic: Lift fish on poacher rack out of broth and drain well, then transfer from rack to a large shallow baking pan and chill. Pour broth through a sieve into a large bowl. Transfer 8 cups broth to a 4-quart heavy pot, reserving remainder for another use. Add white wine, Madeira, thyme sprig, and salt and boil until reduced to 5 cups, 30 to 40 minutes. Cool 20 minutes. Prepare salmon for glazing: Wash reserved leek leaves and chopped leeks in a bowl of cold water, then lift out and drain well. Cut leaves into decorative strips. Blanch strips in a saucepan of boiling water 1 minute, then transfer to a bowl of ice and cold water. Drain and pat dry. Remove strings from cheesecloth, then open cheesecloth but don't remove it. Remove fatty strip and small bones (they look like a comb) from spine of fish from head to tail. Trim off any fat from edges of belly. Carefully remove bony section under gills, then remove skin and dark flesh from visible side (top) of fish by gently scraping with a small sharp knife. Using the cheesecloth, roll fish over onto platter and remove bony section under gills, then remove skin and dark flesh from other side of fish. Wipe platter clean, then cover fish with dampened paper towels and chill until aspic is ready. Clarify broth (using egg whites and shells) and make aspic: Whisk together reduced broth, chopped leek, carrot, celery, and egg whites and shells in a 4- to 6-quart heavy pot. Bring to a boil, whisking constantly, then reduce heat and cook at a bare simmer, undisturbed, over low heat 30 minutes. Ladle broth through sieve lined with a double thickness of dampened paper towels set over a 1-quart glass measure, then press firmly on solids. Soften gelatin in cold water in a 1-quart saucepan 1 minute. Add 3 cups broth and simmer, stirring, until gelatin is dissolved, about 2 minutes. Glaze salmon with aspic: Ladle 2/3 cup aspic into a metal bowl set in a larger bowl of ice and cold water. Let stand, stirring occasionally, just until aspic is the consistency of raw egg white. Remove bowl from ice water and spoon a thin layer of aspic over fish, then chill fish until aspic is set, about 10 minutes. Arrange leek garnish on fish and glaze fish with more aspic. Chill fish, uncovered, until ready to serve. Pour remaining aspic into a 13- by 9-inch baking dish and chill until firm, about 1 hour. Cut into 1/2-inch cubes, then arrange cubes around salmon. Cooks' notes:Salmon can be poached and chilled in broth up to 2 days. Aspic-glazed salmon keeps, chiiled(uncovered), 1 day. *Fish Poachers available at specialty cookware shops and Zabar's (800) 697-6301 or (212) 496-1234.