Grilled Skirt Steaks with Tomatillos Two Ways

PreparationMake salsa: Slit chiles lengthwise, then stem and seed. Heat a dry heavy skillet (not nonstick) over medium heat until hot, then toast chiles, opened flat, turning and pressing with tongs, until more pliable and slightly changed in color, about 1 minute. Cover chiles with hot water in a bowl and soak until softened, about 20 minutes, then drain. Purée chiles, tomatillos, cilantro, garlic, brown sugar, molasses, cumin, and 1 teaspoon salt in a blender until smooth, about 1 minute. Heat oil in a 10-inch heavy skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers, then cook salsa (it will spatter), stirring occasionally, until slightly thicker, 5 to 8 minutes. Grill steaks: Prepare a grill for direct-heat cooking over hot charcoal (high heat for gas); see Grilling Procedure. Whisk together 2 tablespoons oil, cumin, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, and 1 tsp pepper, then coat steaks. Oil grill rack, then grill steaks, covered only if using a gas grill, turning once, until grill marks appear, 4 to 6 minutes total for medium-rare. Let steaks rest on a cutting board, loosely covered with foil, 10 minutes. Make salad while steaks rest: Thinly slice tomatillos and toss with cilantro, shallot, lime juice, remaining 2 tablespoons oil, and salt and pepper to taste. Cut steaks into serving pieces and top with salsa and salad. Cooks’ notes:•Steaks can be cooked in a hot oiled 2-burner grill pan over medium-high heat, 4 to 10 minutes for medium-rare. •Salsa (not salad) can be made 1 day ahead and chilled. Rewarm before serving.

PreparationMake salsa: Slit chiles lengthwise, then stem and seed. Heat a dry heavy skillet (not nonstick) over medium heat until hot, then toast chiles, opened flat, turning and pressing with tongs, until more pliable and slightly changed in color, about 1 minute. Cover chiles with hot water in a bowl and soak until softened, about 20 minutes, then drain. Purée chiles, tomatillos, cilantro, garlic, brown sugar, molasses, cumin, and 1 teaspoon salt in a blender until smooth, about 1 minute. Heat oil in a 10-inch heavy skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers, then cook salsa (it will spatter), stirring occasionally, until slightly thicker, 5 to 8 minutes. Grill steaks: Prepare a grill for direct-heat cooking over hot charcoal (high heat for gas); see Grilling Procedure. Whisk together 2 tablespoons oil, cumin, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, and 1 tsp pepper, then coat steaks. Oil grill rack, then grill steaks, covered only if using a gas grill, turning once, until grill marks appear, 4 to 6 minutes total for medium-rare. Let steaks rest on a cutting board, loosely covered with foil, 10 minutes. Make salad while steaks rest: Thinly slice tomatillos and toss with cilantro, shallot, lime juice, remaining 2 tablespoons oil, and salt and pepper to taste. Cut steaks into serving pieces and top with salsa and salad. Cooks’ notes:•Steaks can be cooked in a hot oiled 2-burner grill pan over medium-high heat, 4 to 10 minutes for medium-rare. •Salsa (not salad) can be made 1 day ahead and chilled. Rewarm before serving.