Chief of Staff Cholent (Hebronite Hamim)

Chief of Staff Cholent (Hebronite Hamim)
Chief of Staff Cholent (Hebronite Hamim)
Editor's note: The recipe and introductory text below are excerpted from Joan Nathan's book The Foods of Israel Today. Nathan also shared some helpful cooking tips exclusively with Epicurious, which we've added at the bottom of the page. To read more about Nathan and Israeli cuisine, click here. According to the Ten Commandments, "On the seventh day thou shalt rest," which means that no cooking can be done on the Sabbath. This tradition is the reason Israel is truly the center of the world for cholent, an overnight stew. Almost all Jewish families have brought their own unique versions — with Hungarian smoked goose breast, Brazilian black beans, Moroccan rice, Bukharan turkey giblets and raisin-stuffed cucumbers, or Polish barley and meat. A dish that has experienced a rebirth even among secular Israelis in the last few years, cholent is often served as a centerpiece main course for parties, usually blending several traditions in one exciting creation. Eons ago, needing a dish that could be kept warm for the Sabbath, Jewish cooks came up with an overnight stew, the ingredients for which varied depending on where they lived. The stew was tightly sealed, often with a paste-like dough, and cooked before the Sabbath began, then left overnight in the embers to warm until the next day. During World War II, before Israelis had proper ovens, the cholent often was simmered over the small flame of a kerosene stove, the lid covered with two heavy bricks. The word cholent comes from the French chaud, meaning "warm," and lent, meaning "slow." In Israel, it is also called hamim, Hebrew for "warm." Like outdoor grilling, preparing cholent seems to have become the Israeli man's domain. It is served on every Israeli army base on Saturday, even in small military units on their own at lookout posts throughout the country, since the army, which officially observes the dietary laws, must serve a traditional Sabbath meal. This Hebronite hamim recipe was given to me by Amnon Lipkin Shachak, a former Israeli army chief of staff. He combines the Ashkenazic basic beans and barley with Sephardic sausages and the long-cooking eggs in their shells called huevos haminadav to make an innovative Sabbath dish from Hebron, the city from which part of his family hails. According to him, the recipe changes each time he makes it, depending on what he can find in the cupboard. This version requires kishke (a traditional delicacy made of flour and fat stuffed into sausage casing, today obtainable from Jewish specialty stores) and the robust and highly aromatic eastern Mediterranean spice combination of baharat (see Tips, below).
  • Preparing Time: -
  • Total Time: -
  • Served Person: Yield: 10 to 12 servings
Jewish Middle Eastern Bean Beef Potato Vegetable Dinner Israeli Meat Chickpea Kosher Dairy Free Peanut Free Tree Nut Free Soy Free
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 cup water
  • 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
  • freshly ground pepper to taste
  • 1 cup long-grain rice
  • 1 1/2 cups chickpeas
  • 2 large onions, chopped

Preparation 1. On Thursday night, soak the white or red beans and chickpeas in cold water to cover. 2. On Friday morning, in a large heavy pot, sauté the onions in the vegetable oil until translucent. Then add the brown sugar and the water and carefully caramelize the onions over very low heat. Turn off the heat until the remaining ingredients are prepared. 3. Drain the beans and scatter them on top of the onions. 4. Cut the fat from the brisket, dice the fat, and set it aside. Rinse the rice in cold water and then drain; repeat twice more. Season the rice with 1/2 teaspoon salt and a few grinds of black pepper and dot with about 4 tablespoons of cubed beef fat. Place the rice in the center of a sheet of cheesecloth and enclose it loosely, so that the rice can expand. Tie with a thin strip of cheesecloth or twine and set aside. 5. Season the frika, bulgur, or barley with 1/2 teaspoon salt and a few grinds of black pepper, dot with about 4 tablespoons of cubed beef fat, and put it in another piece of cheesecloth. Tie it up loosely. 6. Add the beef bones to the onions in the pot. Set the brisket on top, then the 2 bags of grains, the kishke, pearl onions, potatoes, and eggs. Sprinkle with additional salt to taste, pepper, baharat, and soup powder. Add water to cover, cover the pot, and ring to a boil. Then transfer to a preheated 200-degree oven to cook overnight or put the pot on a blech (a heated asbestos pad which many Jewish cooks use to keep Sabbath dishes warm) over low heat and leave until ready to serve. Joan Nathan shares her tips with Epicurious: •For this dish, Nathan prefers the texture and flavor of dried chickpeas and beans to canned. •Baharat, an Eastern Mediterranean spice blend, generally includes paprika, hot pepper, black pepper, cumin, coriander, cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg, cardamom, cloves, and salt. It is available at Middle Eastern markets. If you can't find it, Nathan recommends using your favorites from the list above, being sure to include pepper. •"This dish can easily be made in a slow cooker," says Nathan. "Sauté the onions and place them in the cooker, then add the drained beans and other ingredients. Leave the dish to cook throughout the day or overnight." Reprinted with permission from The Foods of Israel Today by Joan Nathan, copyright © 2001. Published by Knopf.

Preparation 1. On Thursday night, soak the white or red beans and chickpeas in cold water to cover. 2. On Friday morning, in a large heavy pot, sauté the onions in the vegetable oil until translucent. Then add the brown sugar and the water and carefully caramelize the onions over very low heat. Turn off the heat until the remaining ingredients are prepared. 3. Drain the beans and scatter them on top of the onions. 4. Cut the fat from the brisket, dice the fat, and set it aside. Rinse the rice in cold water and then drain; repeat twice more. Season the rice with 1/2 teaspoon salt and a few grinds of black pepper and dot with about 4 tablespoons of cubed beef fat. Place the rice in the center of a sheet of cheesecloth and enclose it loosely, so that the rice can expand. Tie with a thin strip of cheesecloth or twine and set aside. 5. Season the frika, bulgur, or barley with 1/2 teaspoon salt and a few grinds of black pepper, dot with about 4 tablespoons of cubed beef fat, and put it in another piece of cheesecloth. Tie it up loosely. 6. Add the beef bones to the onions in the pot. Set the brisket on top, then the 2 bags of grains, the kishke, pearl onions, potatoes, and eggs. Sprinkle with additional salt to taste, pepper, baharat, and soup powder. Add water to cover, cover the pot, and ring to a boil. Then transfer to a preheated 200-degree oven to cook overnight or put the pot on a blech (a heated asbestos pad which many Jewish cooks use to keep Sabbath dishes warm) over low heat and leave until ready to serve. Joan Nathan shares her tips with Epicurious: •For this dish, Nathan prefers the texture and flavor of dried chickpeas and beans to canned. •Baharat, an Eastern Mediterranean spice blend, generally includes paprika, hot pepper, black pepper, cumin, coriander, cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg, cardamom, cloves, and salt. It is available at Middle Eastern markets. If you can't find it, Nathan recommends using your favorites from the list above, being sure to include pepper. •"This dish can easily be made in a slow cooker," says Nathan. "Sauté the onions and place them in the cooker, then add the drained beans and other ingredients. Leave the dish to cook throughout the day or overnight." Reprinted with permission from The Foods of Israel Today by Joan Nathan, copyright © 2001. Published by Knopf.

Greek Cucumber Salad?
Stuffed Blueberry French Toast?
Foodie Friday: Pasta Bolognese {Gluten-Free}?
Chickpea Tacos?
Privacy policy