Sanuki Sea Stock

Preparation Place the dried sardines, kelp, and dried mushrooms in a deep pot and cover with the cold water. Place the pot over medium-high heat and wait until small bubbles appear around the rim before adjusting the heat to maintain a steady but not very vigorous simmer. Cook the stock for about 10 minutes, or until the broth becomes a pale gold. If large clouds of froth appear, skim them away. Remove the pot from the heat and allow the contents to sink to the bottom naturally, about 2 minutes. If you want a smoky flavor, add the bonito flakes (the more flakes you use, the smokier the flavor). Wait 2 or 3 minutes for the flakes to sink, and then strain the broth through a fine-woven muslin cloth, or a coffee-filter-lined colander. Elizabeth Andoh shares her tips with Epicurious:·Iriko (dried sardines), also called niboshi, are available in most Asian markets. To maximize their flavor-enhancing ability and keep potential bitterness to a minimum, trim them by removing the gills and contents of the belly cavity. Because the fish are dried, this is not a messy procedure: First, snap off and discard the heads. Then, pinch each fish at midpoint along its abdomen to split open the belly cavity. With your fingertips, pull away and discard the crumbly, blackened material in the belly. ·For making stock, look for the reasonably-priced, all-purpose kombu labeled "dashi kombu," or "Hidaka." ·Fresh shiitake and dried (hoshi) shiitake mushrooms are not interchangeable. Dried mushrooms are especially rich in minerals such as potassium, and contribute an intense flavor to stocks and stews. For making stocks, the flatter, less costly varieties of hoshi shiitake (either whole caps, broken pieces, or presliced bits) will be fine. ·To further release the full flavor of the dried sardines, kelp, and dried mushrooms, soak them for at least 10 or 15 minutes (and up to several hours) in the pot of cold water before cooking. ·Dried fish flakes (katsuobushi) generally combine shavings of tunalike bonito (katsuo) with other less expensive fish such as sardines and mackerel. Bonito yields a mild but smoky flavor; if your preference runs toward smokiness, look for a higher percentage of bonito, usually accompanied by a higher price. Sardine and mackerel lend a more assertive flavor. Once opened, the flakes go rancid rather quickly, so if you will be using them only occasionally, look for a "fresh pack" (several small, sealed packets, each containing 3 or 5 grams) rather than a single larger bag (usually 100 grams). ·All the dried pantry items in this recipe can be ordered online at www.maruwa.com or www.katagiri.com.

Preparation Place the dried sardines, kelp, and dried mushrooms in a deep pot and cover with the cold water. Place the pot over medium-high heat and wait until small bubbles appear around the rim before adjusting the heat to maintain a steady but not very vigorous simmer. Cook the stock for about 10 minutes, or until the broth becomes a pale gold. If large clouds of froth appear, skim them away. Remove the pot from the heat and allow the contents to sink to the bottom naturally, about 2 minutes. If you want a smoky flavor, add the bonito flakes (the more flakes you use, the smokier the flavor). Wait 2 or 3 minutes for the flakes to sink, and then strain the broth through a fine-woven muslin cloth, or a coffee-filter-lined colander. Elizabeth Andoh shares her tips with Epicurious:·Iriko (dried sardines), also called niboshi, are available in most Asian markets. To maximize their flavor-enhancing ability and keep potential bitterness to a minimum, trim them by removing the gills and contents of the belly cavity. Because the fish are dried, this is not a messy procedure: First, snap off and discard the heads. Then, pinch each fish at midpoint along its abdomen to split open the belly cavity. With your fingertips, pull away and discard the crumbly, blackened material in the belly. ·For making stock, look for the reasonably-priced, all-purpose kombu labeled "dashi kombu," or "Hidaka." ·Fresh shiitake and dried (hoshi) shiitake mushrooms are not interchangeable. Dried mushrooms are especially rich in minerals such as potassium, and contribute an intense flavor to stocks and stews. For making stocks, the flatter, less costly varieties of hoshi shiitake (either whole caps, broken pieces, or presliced bits) will be fine. ·To further release the full flavor of the dried sardines, kelp, and dried mushrooms, soak them for at least 10 or 15 minutes (and up to several hours) in the pot of cold water before cooking. ·Dried fish flakes (katsuobushi) generally combine shavings of tunalike bonito (katsuo) with other less expensive fish such as sardines and mackerel. Bonito yields a mild but smoky flavor; if your preference runs toward smokiness, look for a higher percentage of bonito, usually accompanied by a higher price. Sardine and mackerel lend a more assertive flavor. Once opened, the flakes go rancid rather quickly, so if you will be using them only occasionally, look for a "fresh pack" (several small, sealed packets, each containing 3 or 5 grams) rather than a single larger bag (usually 100 grams). ·All the dried pantry items in this recipe can be ordered online at www.maruwa.com or www.katagiri.com.