Pan de Muertos

PreparationFor the starter: Put the flour, salt, sugar, and yeast into a mixing bowl and gradually beat in the water and eggs. Continue beating until the dough forms a cohesive mass around the dough hook. It should be sticky, elastic, and shiny, about 5 minutes. Turn the dough out onto a floured board and form into a round cushion. Butter a clean bowl and sprinkle well with flour. Place the dough into it, cover with greased waxed paper and a towel, and set aside in a warm place—ideally about 70°F (21°C)—until the dough has doubled in volume, 1 1/2 to 2 hours. For the dough: Tear the starter into pieces and put it, the sugar, and the butter into the bowl of a mixer and mix well with the dough hook, gradually beating in the flour alternately with the yolks. Beat in the water and flavoring—you should have a slightly sticky, smooth, shiny dough that just holds its shape (since eggs, flours, and climates differ you may need to reduce or increase the liquid). Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured board and form into a round cushion shape. Butter a clean bowl and dust well with flour and place the dough in it. Cover with greased waxed paper and a towel, and set aside in a warm place, about 70°F (21°C), until it is almost doubled in size, about 1 1/2 hours. Or, if you have the time, set it aside gently weighted down in the refrigerator overnight. (If you choose the latter, allow the dough to come up to room temperature before shaping it.) Liberally grease four baking sheets—two for main "bodies" and two for the "heads and bones." Turn the dough out onto a floured board and divide into two equal pieces. Set one piece aside under plastic wrap while you work with the first. Take three-fourths of the dough and roll it into a smooth ball. Press it out to a circle about 8 inches (20cm) in diameter—it should be about 1 inch (2.5cm) thick. Press around the edge of the dough to form a narrow ridge of about 1 inch (2.5cm)—like the brim of a hat—and transfer to one of the baking sheets. Cover loosely with greased waxed paper and set aside in a warm place, about 70°F (21°C), to rise about half its size again, about 1 hour. Divide the remaining one-quarter of dough into four equal parts. Roll one piece into a smooth ball—that will be the head. Roll out the other three pieces into strips about 8 inches (20cm) long, forming knobs as you do it. Place these onto a second tray, cover as before, and set aside to rise for about 1 hour. Repeat the steps to form the second bread. Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). At the end of the rising period, place the three "bones" at regular intervals across the dough with the round ball in the middle and make two indentations for "eyes." Brush the surface of the dough with the beaten eggs and bake until well browned and springy to the touch, 15 to 20 minutes. Turn the heat off, open the oven door, and let the breads sit for about 5 minutes. Transfer the breads to racks, brush with the melted butter, and sprinkle well with the sugar. It is best to let the breads cool off for about 2 hours before eating. If well stored, they will keep soft for several days and, in fact, improve in flavor.