New England Clam Chowder

Put the clams in a Dutch oven and cover with water. Bring to a boil, cover the pot, and cook for 1 minute. With tongs, pull out the clams that have opened. For any that haven’t, cover and cook another minute. Discard any that don’t open. Remove most of the clams from their shells, reserving 12 in the shells. Mince the clams that were removed from their shells. Strain the clam water to remove any grit and reserve. Rinse the Dutch oven. Add the bacon or salt pork and fry over medium-high heat to render some fat. Add the onion and celery and sauté until soft, about 5 minutes. Add 2 cups of the reserved strained clam water, the potatoes, and the salt and pepper. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and cook for 10 to 15 minutes, until the potatoes are tender. In a bowl, whisk together the flour and 1/4 cup of the milk to form a smooth slurry. Whisk the mixture into the pot and raise the heat to medium-high, continuing to whisk until the chowder boils. Add the remaining 2 cups milk and whisk until smooth. When the soup has thickened, add the clams, including the ones still in the shells, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, just to warm the clams up. Serve, prominently placing 2 or 3 of the clams in shells in each serving.